Eats

BELOW CANAL


DUMPLING HOUSE
118A Eldridge Street, Lower East Side, 625-8008

Of the four northern Chinese dumpling stalls in Chinatown, this is my favorite, offering pork-and-chive pot stickers, boiled-beef sandwiches on wedges of homemade sesame bread, vegetable-filled hot and sour soup, and the legendary chive box—ask for "chives and egg pancake"—a half-moon pie filled with scallions, vermicelli, scrambled egg, and, sometimes, baby shrimp. The box is prepared on the spot and cooked to order. Also look for the jar of summer kimchi at the carryout window. Best of all: Most selections are $1, and there are bags of frozen dumplings to take home. ¢

Location Info

Map

Vanessa's Dumpling House

118A Eldridge St.
New York, NY 10002

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: Chinatown

Sophie's Cuban Cuisine

96 Chambers St.
New York, NY 10007

Category: Restaurant > Cuban

Region: Financial District

Bottino

246 Tenth Ave.
New York, NY 10011

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Chelsea

Periyali

35 W. 20th St. #A
New York, NY 10011

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Chelsea

Pigalle

790 Eighth Ave.
New York, NY 10019

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: West 40s

Atelier, Ritz-Carlton Hotel

50 Central Park S.
New York, NY 10019

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: West 50s

Cafe Sabarsky

1048 Fifth Ave.
New York, NY 10028

Category: Restaurant > German

Region: East 80s

Sokobolie

2529 Eighth Ave.
New York, NY 10027

Category: Restaurant > African

Region: Harlem

Cafe Steinhof

422 7th Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11215

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Park Slope

Carolina Creek Restaurant

87 Utica Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11213

Category: Restaurant > Soul Food

Region: Crown Heights

Castro's

511 Myrtle Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11205

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Brooklyn

La Piazzetta

442 Graham Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11211

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Brooklyn

Taqueria la Asuncion

206 Knickerboker Ave.
Brooklyn, NY 11237

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Bushwick

Eddie's Sweet Shop

105-29 Metropolitan Ave.
Jamaica, NY 11434

Category: Restaurant > Dessert

Region: Jamaica

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96 Chambers Street, 608-9900

Proving that great food never goes out of style, Sophie's has reinvented the Cuban lunch counter on Chambers Street, filling a hot cabinet in the window with snacking standards like empanadas, yuca croquettes, and papas rellenas—scarlet mashed-potato ocarinas stuffed with ground beef and olives. The Cuban sandwich made further inside at a special counter is top-notch, oozing cheese and mayo, and loaded with great pernil and thin-sliced dill pickles. Best surprise, however, is a made-to-order camarones al ajillo, featuring a dozen barely cooked shrimp in a tangy, annatto-laced sauce. ¢

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THEO
325 Spring Street, Soho, 414-1344

Occupying the same premises as the original White Columns Gallery, Theo permits you to sit on the exact spot where Sonic Youth played their break-out "Noise Festival" show. When we visited recently (there's been a change of chef since then), the food was playful and semi-revolutionary, including a gazpacho that seemed like a healthy reinvention of Orbit soda, with tiny BBs of vegetable suspended in a pallid tomato water that was barely sweet. Also intriguing was a macaroni ravioli that, while not containing actual macaroni, tasted like mac and cheese. Entrées were sturdier and not quite so wild. Our fave was a fish stew that toed the line between bouillabaisse and cioppino. $$$


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14TH TO 42ND


BOTTINO
246 Tenth Avenue, Chelsea, 206-6766

Frustrated in your attempt to get into Red Cat after that Chelsea gallery opening? Right across the street, Bottino is nearly as good. Go for the octopus salad, in which the rubbery fellow is upstaged by his tasty olive-oil dressing, and skip the boring salad of underdressed baby greens. Pastas make the best main courses, especially the giant green ravioli stuffed with cheese and herbs and bathed in sage butter, but also consider the baby chicken, splayed and crusty and served on a bed of sautéed peppers. And while the weather lasts, luxuriate in one of the city's leafiest restaurant gardens. $$


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35 West 20th Street, 463-7890

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PIGALLEL
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ATELIER
Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 50 Central Park South, 521-6125

Ritz-Carlton dining rooms all over the country provide expensive and slightly creative French fare in sedate surroundings, and this new restaurant is no exception. The $68 prix fixe offers three courses of solid high-quality ingredients, and, to its credit, there is no additional charge for foie gras (served dusted with sea salt in a whip of basil and pea shoots), roast lobster (an entire shelled specimen with baby fennel in a sea of pink foam), and dry-aged sirloin steak. The drawbacks—too much foam, and a fiendishly expensive wine list, with virtually no bottles under $50. You'll be hearing a lot more about this place. $$$

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