Shh! A Williamsburg bar wants to remain below the radar

When we heard that the Larry Lawrence wanted to keep the press out, well, we had to investigate. Indeed, L.L. is not easy to find: A single nondescript door that reads "bar" overhead opens onto a long corridor lit like a mine shaft, with naked light bulbs dangling from the ceiling. But this is no hole in the wall. Inside it's a sophisticated, yet unpretentious, space with exposed brick, soft candlelight, homemade wooden booths, and Chet Baker crooning in the background. Upstairs, an outside deck with a wall-to-wall window overlooking the bar allows you to smoke alfresco without feeling exiled from the crowd indoors. Opened in October, this understated drinking destination seems to be a world away from the trendiness of nearby Bedford Avenue, though it caters to the same after-hours crowd of young artists and musicians. The smartly dressed bartender recommended whiskey for the cold weather (Maker's Mark, $6). But upon request for something sweet, she mixed a delectably frothy French martini ($7) with Chambord, pineapple juice, and Absolut Kurant (the currant flavor added a candy-coated zip). A standard selection of beer (Stella Artois, $5) and wine (try the fruity Chilean Matiz 2001 cabernet, $6) is also offered at affordable prices. Now, make like you never read this and head on over.

 
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