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NY Mirror

Best of the Wurst: Experience Germany Via This Bierhaus

Emily Weinstein

Tuesday, August 2nd 2005

A floor-to-ceiling mural of the snowcapped Alps, an indoor picnic table or two, and a 12-foot-high Jever banner: Lederhosen, a bierhaus in the West Village, bears the exact same DNA as the typical Bavarian pub. True to Euro form, the bar offers a drink on the list called "Diesel"—equal parts Coke and beer—but there's also an ample selection of German brews on tap, like Weihenstephaner and HB München that don't need mixers. Steins come in three sizes: klein ($3), gross ($4.50 to $5), and mass ($7.50 to $8.50), which is akin to a Big Gulp of Dortmunder pilsner. Flag down the waitress, who hails from a small town outside Munich called Burgau, for snack-perfect sausages ($3.50 each), among them wieners, weisswurst, and bratwurst, which are served in crusty buns, topped with sauerkraut, onions, red cabbage, and two different kinds of mustard. Yet the ultimate Bavarian sausage party comes in the form of the $50 Lederhosen Haus Special, a miniature keg of Spaten and wurst platter. Try to anschluss that. Then top it all off with a shot of schnapps and pose for a picture in front of that mural, pantomiming a hike in the mountains. It's like you're there!

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