"I love this bar, because there always seems to be about eight women per every guy," said a man sitting on a barstool at K&M in Williamsburg. If this supposed disparity of the sexes really exists, we're not sure. We were too distracted by this former pierogi plant's tin ceiling, which is embossed with a sleek, art deco pattern, and its decorative white candles, which stretch film noir shadows across sea-green walls, to do a head count. Open windows facing North 7th and Roebling streets make for ample people-watching as well. We lucked out on catching an a capella version of Melissa Etheridge's "Come to My Window" by a group of slaphappy passersby, while the DJ played '60s soul indoors. Lounge in the black-leather booths with puffy, button tufts or hang out at the bar and sip on a not-too-bitter Würzburger German pilsner ($5). The rest of the impressive beer menu is an extensive United Nationslineup of choices from Japan (Hitachino White Ale, $7) Italy (Tapetto Valente lager, $5) and Poland (Tyskie and Lomza, $5 each) among and obscure Belgian and French drafts that would send brew buffs straight to heaven. Whether you're going with hopes of gaggles of girls or to try an unusual pint, K&M is a neighborhood breath of fresh air among overcrowded weekend spots.