A (Chinatown) Fish Story

Hide the blackfish! State agents raid Chinese restaurants for puny, but tasty, swimmers

At the Chinatown restaurant, as soon as LaCroix begins to write a ticket, the manager bolts. "They speak English until the minute you try to ask them about blackfish," LaCroix mutters. When the manager returned, he was told he had to appear in court on February 28.

The officers shoo away a crowd of onlookers that have gathered around the unmarked truck filled with snow-covered fish. Then they speed off to the Bowery Mission, a Chinatown homeless shelter where they planned to deliver the day's catch, Robin Hood style. But to the officers' chagrin, the shelter, apparently stocked with blackfish from a raid the previous week, turns down the offer.

"Blackfish are a casualty of this war," says Powers, who, like LaCroix, fishes for sport upstate. "We just hate to see a good fish go to waste."

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