Eating While Drinking: Cocktail Lounges With Snacks

Woman cannot live by gin alone

Clover Club's deviled eggs come in a foursome, each one with a different topping: bacon, tomatoes, olives, or capers. Equally good are the crisply fried oysters and the smoked salmon plate—a straightforward combination of brown bread, cornichons, onions, and Norwegian salmon.

Steak tartare was over-salted, but served with great potato gaufrettes (a fancy way of saying waffle-cut potato chips). Molasses-glazed chicken drumettes had greasy, rubbery skin, and their glaze was too sweet. Dunking them in Roquefort sauce improved them slightly.

Clover Club's snacks are relatively affordable and have bar-food soul. But it will never be a food destination, and in fairness, it's not meant to be. (Coincidentally, chef Gavin Citron, who came up with Pegu Club's original menu, also designed Clover Club's menu.) Although both Pegu and Clover Club have a few great things to eat, the cocktails are still infinitely better than the food. Or maybe I just wasn't drunk enough.

Quarter: Bring your own slab of meat.
Calvin Godfrey

Quarter: Bring your own slab of meat.

Location Info


Pegu Club

77 W. Houston St.
New York, NY 10012

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Nolita

Clover Club

210 Smith St.
Brooklyn, NY 11201

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Cobble Hill


Pegu Club
77 West Houston Street, 212-473-7348Clover Club
210 Smith Street, 718-855-7939Quarter
676 5th Avenue, 718-788-0989

Over at Quarter, a cocktail bar in South Park Slope that gets a lot less buzz than its more pedigreed cousins, you can bring your own meat to grill in the bar's backyard. All things considered, if you're going to get tipsy, it's probably best for your wallet and your stomach if you bring your own snacks.

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