Fried Green Tomatoes, Shrimp, and Grits at BedStuy's Peaches Market

A Southern-style café that fits in like it's been there for years

Doing Cajun and Creole food—and, especially, doing it right—is much more ambitious than it sounds. The staples—red beans and rice; gumbo—seem countrified, but they're actually as complicated and technique-driven as classic French food. It's possible that the kitchen just needs more time to nail the dishes.

But as you'd expect from the guys behind Smoke Joint, the meat at Peaches is high-quality. The beef short ribs are particularly glorious, blackened on the outside, with coarsely grained, luscious meat. They're served with craggy, roasted crushed potatoes, sprinkled with Cajun seasoning.

Of the side dishes, skip the too-sweet cornbread and order the garlicky sautéed kale, the fries, the crushed potatoes, or the cheesy grits. It's fun to go with a group, BYOB (for now), and get a bunch of sides to share with your main dishes. The generously portioned desserts run from the awful (a peach cobbler that's more like peach soup) to the pleasing (bread pudding with lemon cream, or pound cake with berries and whipped cream).

Down-home in Bed-Stuy: Heirloom tomatos and peaches
Emily Peet-Lukes

Down-home in Bed-Stuy: Heirloom tomatos and peaches

Despite its flaws, Peaches is a restaurant that knows its way around a fryer and a hunk of meat, and dishes it up for about the cost of a mediocre midtown salad.

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