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Braai: Both Fun and Game

Come get your grilled-beastie fix

Ostrich and venison steaks come in massive, wood-smoked hunks, cooked nicely between medium and medium-rare. The server won't ask how you'd like one cooked—perhaps the chef figures (rightly) that he knows more about cooking ostrich and venison than the average New Yorker. The two creatures look so different when alive that it's surprising to notice how similar they taste—mildly gamey, pinkly mineral, and lean.

Many main dishes are served with one of the mild corn dishes that are common to sub-Saharan Africa. There's pap, which the menu helpfully translates as "polenta," and samp, which is very much like hominy. Samp is stewed with beans into a delicious, soupy side dish that comes with the lush oxtail stew.

Rumors of zebra were greatly exaggerated.
Emily Peet-Lukes
Rumors of zebra were greatly exaggerated.

For dessert, go for the malva pudding, which reminded me of sticky toffee pudding—a soft, honeyed sponge cake, warm and gooey, in a pool of pastry cream with a small ball of vanilla ice cream. Skip the koeksisters (South African doughnuts) just on principle: The fried dough is skewered and balanced vertically on a large toothpick at such a precarious angle that the server has to hold it in place while he carries it over to you. Now that the zebras are off the hook, let's start a campaign to free the doughnuts—at least until we eat them.

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