Park Slope Gets Serious at Bussaco

A new eatery brings lavishly good food to the neighborhood

The lone, minor misstep on the menu is that the pastrami duck breast doesn't taste like pastrami at all—no black pepper, juniper, and/or coriander rub in evidence. But the sauerkraut and black-bread stuffing on the side are appropriately earthy.

Meanwhile, you'll want to drink wine with your meal, and Carney has put together a smart list of wines from France, Italy, Spain, and the U.S. that's priced fairly enough that you can actually afford to order them. Wine by the glass starts at $7, and there are no less than nine bottles that are under $30.

Like Park Slope, Bussaco is earnest and maybe a little too serious—the servers, for instance, sometimes seem alarmingly grave. (The "tap or bottled water" question is followed by the information that, alternatively, we could pay extra for the filtered water that "we bottle here.")

Location Info

Map

Bussaco

833 Union St.
Brooklyn, NY 11215

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Brooklyn

Details

Bussaco
833 Union Street
718-857-8828

Now Bussaco just has to work on its soundtrack. One night, the music veered from classical to Elvis to some sort of '90s hip-hop, which prompted a friend to say, "I believe this song is sampling tracks of children screaming." (At least there weren't any real-life children screaming. You can't take these things for granted in Park Slope.) Then, in perhaps the boldest musical choice I've ever experienced at a restaurant, the theme from Super Mario Bros. II came on. We stared at each other over the peppy, synthesized boops and doops and wondered if we ought to be trying to save the princess.

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