BarBao Is Pho Real

A new Vietnamese spot on the Upper West Side showcases Michael Huynh's cooking

Don't hog that fish all to yourself.
Jesse Reed
Don't hog that fish all to yourself.

The heady, funky, acidic, and zippy flavors of Vietnamese cooking lend themselves easily to an upscale restaurant. There's complexity to spare, and plenty of opportunity for Huynh to show off his skill with the brilliant flavors of his home country. It will be interesting to see how his cooking will evolve, given time to settle into one spot.

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