Red All Over: At Vermilion

A crazy quilt of Indian and Latin flavors goes flop

Prepare to be amused.
Calvin Godfrey
Prepare to be amused.


At Vermilion
480 Lexington Avenue, 212-871-6600

As amusing as At Vermilion is, in the end, I found it a little depressing. It seems as if the chef has no confidence that her food will thrive on its own, so she depends on this dated and silly show to distract us from it and justify the prices. (And maybe someone ought to buy the servers a pani puri margarita—they're so serious that they might as well work in the ER.) If the restaurant put as much attention into its sauces as it does into its squeeze-bottled, architectural presentations, it would be an improvement.

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