Co.: An Abbreviated Restaurant

Jim Lahey turns to pizza

The two best pies are the ham-and-cheese and the boscaiola. The ham-and-cheese is covered in a thick layer of rich, salty dairy goodness—pecorino, buffalo mozzarella, and Gruyère—and layered with silky-thin slices of prosciutto. It's zipped up with a sprinkle of caraway seeds. The boscaiola is dotted with some very fine pork sausage, along with buffalo mozzarella, tomato sauce, onions, mushrooms, and a bit of chile.

The pizza bianca is made from the same recipe as the version at the Sullivan Street Bakery, but is formed into rounds and served warm. As is traditional, it's sprinkled with rosemary, sea salt, and a tiny drizzle of olive oil—the big surprise is that it's actually the same size as the other pizzas (which range from $7 to $17) but is sold for the amazingly low price of $3. The bread and butter is actually more expensive, as are the appetizer toasts, which come one per $4 order.

There are a lot of people in this city who take pizza at least as seriously as nuclear disarmament. I guess I should confess that I'm not one of them. I looked around at the huddled masses clustered around the door of Co., waiting for hours as patiently as cattle, and I just didn't get it. Still, a great crust is a beautiful thing.

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