Fort Defiance Pops Up in Red Hook

A newish restaurant adds even more fizz to Van Brunt Street

Don't miss the bluefish rillettes, which sometimes sell out later in the evening. The preparation makes excellent use of that dense, rich fish—whipped into a salty, rich paste, and potted. Spread it on a crostini with a bit of the sweet onion relish that comes alongside. The pork pâté found in the banh mi shows up again on the dinner menu, this time augmented with bits of fig, and cut from a loaf with a pork loin embedded inside, giving every fat-speckled slice a center of lean pink meat. Skip the cold poached shrimp, which taste too strongly of iodine.

Fort Defiance takes its name from a Revolutionary War stronghold that kept George Washington sheltered from a British attack one night on the banks of the East River. He may have been better fortified if a Tom Collins and a muffuletta had been included in the deal.

Beer, banh mi, and a little harbor air
Caleb Ferguson
Beer, banh mi, and a little harbor air

Location Info

Map

Fort Defiance

365 Van Brunt St.
Brooklyn, NY 11231

Category: Restaurant > Cafe

Region: Red Hook

Details

Fort Defiance
365 Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn
718-522-7996

sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

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