Stepping out of the Center Street entrance to the Canal Street subway station, you run smack into a small cart that peddles rice noodle rolls. For $1.50 you can get a bowl of the plain noodles, squirted with soy sauce, dark soy, and hoisin sauce, sprinkled with sesame seeds. For just 25 cents more, augment the noodles with beef tripe, pork skin, or fish balls. There are also tea-cooked eggs and congee, but most people seem to order some variation on the noodles, which are very scantily filled with scallions.
Go for the noodles with bouncy, blandly fishy fish balls, and you’ve got a solid meal for under $2. The noodles are chewy and slippery, and soak the sauce into their starchy pores. The dish is best eaten for breakfast.
Find the cart on Center Street, between Canal and Walker Streets.
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