Virgin's On Top at Bunny Chow

The Lower East Side greets a South African restaurant

The mains run between $10 and $18, and appetizers average $8—fair enough, although the wine list could use some bottles in the $20 range, especially since you can find good bargains in South African wine. Bottles here start at $35, which is preposterous for such a casual place.

Then again, you can linger over that bottle for however long you like. One night, we sat with a big plate of the biryani and drank a bottle of Pepper Pot, a simple, berry-ish red blend from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. Our waiter cavorted around the room and periodically disappeared for smoke breaks. It's rare and somewhat refreshing to find a place in Manhattan that's so genuinely weird, and so unconcerned with business notions like turning tables.

sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

Virgin's on top: Standard position at Bunny Chow
Jared Gruenwald
Virgin's on top: Standard position at Bunny Chow

For more of our restaurant coverage, check out our food blog, Fork in the Road

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