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The Gramercy Pork Hotel: Maialino

Danny Meyer pigs out at his latest restaurant

If you wish to split a pasta course, the kitchen will portion it into two separate bowls, saving you from dragging bucatini all over the table. This is a good idea if you are aiming for both the traditional multi-course meal and some semblance of affordability—share an antipasta, split a pasta, and still have room and dollars left for a secondi.

Good choices for a secondi include that amazing suckling pig and a comforting braised lamb neck in Frascati wine and rosemary. But some of the secondi come up against the same challenge as they do at Marea: The antipasti and pastas are hard acts to follow. The braised oxtails, a trio of them lined up in a tart tomato sauce, were slightly oversalted and underwhelming in their one-notedness.

Still, this restaurant is worth your time for many reasons. Although it's possible, even easy, to spend a lot of money at Maialino, a big tab is not inevitable—choose carefully (pastas are good values) and share courses. There are also quartinos of wine—that's a quarter of a liter, most priced $10 to $16—for those who want more than a glass but don't want to shell out for a bottle. Maialino is thoughtful like that.

A little Rome on Lex
Jared Gruenwald
A little Rome on Lex

sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

For more of our restaurant coverage, check out our food blog at Fork in the Road

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