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Tamarind Tribeca Upscales the Tandoor

Tabla and Devi get a little company

Then again, disappointing dishes crop up. Galouti kebab, the ultra-tender lamb kebab apocryphally created for a toothless viceroy, is more lush and flavorful at Bhatti Indian Grill on Lexington. And the Hyderabadi lamb is as heavy and muddy-tasting as at any underachieving curry-slinger.

But for the most part, Tamarind Tribeca's unknown team of chefs is turning out extremely enjoyable, sometimes terrific, dishes. One chef is less anonymous than the others—that's the tall, imposing fellow with a well-trimmed goatee and a distinguished nose who monitors the roaring tandoor. His station is surrounded by glass on three sides so that diners can watch him deftly work the giant skewers. A serious man for some serious food.

These gentlemen bring you the subcontinent.
Amelia Beamish
These gentlemen bring you the subcontinent.

sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

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