The vegetables are not an afterthought. Each table gets a trio of free salads to start—cabbage in miso, kimchi, and sesame-oiled sprouts—but the others are worth paying for. We hunted through a bowl of seasonal namul (pickles), popping tiny beets and cherry tomatoes into our mouths, and carefully shared out a plate of beautifully diminutive raw vegetables: white turnips the size of cuff links, carrots like a newborn's pinkie. Refreshing cucumbers get dredged in Korean chile paste.
As good as those are, this is definitely not a vegetarian-friendly eatery. Once finished with the meaty (and apparently healthy!) debauch, we exited out into the genteel quiet of Hudson Street licking our chops and feeling on top of the food chain.