Food

Pix From O Lavrador, a Portuguese Restaurant in Jamaica, Queens

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One is well advised to enter O Lavrador by the barroom at the left, through a rustic door with the word BAR spelled out in bullet holes, and a gnarled limb as a door pull.

This week, Counter Culture drops anchor at O Lavrador (“The Farmer”), an old-school Portuguese place on the way between downtown Jamaica and JFK Airport. A couple of special menus, and prices a couple of dollars lower than those in the formal restaurant next door, make the barroom a better bet. Pay particular attention to the chalkboard specials, which reflect regional and seasonal seafood and other homestyle specialties.

Following are a few dishes eaten in the barroom, washed down with Portuguese Sagres beer.

Chourico (a wine-laced pork sausage) Lavrador style presents charred segements, and makes a great shareable app.

The chalkboard nearly always lists at least one caldeirada, this one featuring clams, shrimp, an mokfish, along with tons of rice that absorbs all the seafood flavors.

Copious amounts of grilled lamb in gravy constituted one special on a recent evening.

Cod, Lavrador style is served in a terra cotta fish.

Typical barroom menu one evening.

Part of our crew at O Lavrador

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