This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has the “one of the hottest things” he’s tasted all year: Liberian pepper shrimp at Maima’s in Jamaica, Queens. Sarah DiGregorio samples the pie at Paulie Gee’s, where the crust “burrows into your brain — a stretchy, bubbly, char-spotted pillow of a bread, the thought of which makes your stomach growl days later.”
Meanwhile, Sam Sifton heads to the Bowery for pizza at Pulino’s, and deems the cooking “simple and brash, as American as it is inflected with Italian flavors, rustic in the sense that it comes out of smoky, wood-assisted ovens, and urban for the very same reason.”
Adam Platt admits that, while ABC Kitchen may be Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s most “overtly gimmicky undertaking yet,” the food inspires “studious, almost scholarly silences, punctuated by quiet exclamations of pleasure.”
Alan Richman also approves of ABC Kitchen, calling it, “an admirable addition to the Manhattan landscape, one of the best new restaurants to open this year.”
Jay Cheshes gives in to Fatty ‘Cue, “an unabashed celebration of carnivorous gluttony…
a menu that’s a paean to fire and fat.”
Gael Greene has a meal cooked and served by Michael “Bao” Huynh himself at DOB 111, who is known for restaurants that are “wonderful…at least for the first month.”
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