Food

Robert Sietsema at Mile End; Sarah DiGregorio at Bromo Satay House

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This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the “deeply scarlet, slow-smoked beef brisket” at Mile End. Sarah DiGregorio checks out Bromo Satay House, where “generally, the meat and fish are delicious, while anything in a broth is not.”

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Prime Meats for food that “is executed with a rare degree of excellence, from the salad with its silky nap of dressing and perfect, peppery greens to the complementary textures and deep flavors of the chicken.”
[NY Times]

Adam Platt finds hits and misses at clubby Kenmare, asking, “Is this kind of competent, somewhat rudimentary cooking enough to lift the curse of 98 Kenmare Street?”
[NY Magazine]

Ryan Sutton isn’t impressed with Pulino’s, declaring that “[t]here are many good pizzerias in New York. Pulino’s is not one of them. Chef Nate Appleman’s Left Coast, arugula noodlings just miss the target.”
[Bloomberg]

Jay Cheshes finds Zengo a bore: “It serves a fusion menu (a dated brand of Asian-Mex) in a city where it’s way out of style, in a cavernous midtown space.”
[Time Out]

Steve Cuozzo pays a visit to Quattro in the Trump Soho Hotel, where “[i]nconsistency plagues the menu. Pasta satisfies when the kitchen’s on.”
[NY Post]

Gael Greene braves Penn Plaza to sample the goods at Lugo Caffè, where she enjoys “mostly delicious Italianish food for New Yorkers — excessive, occasionally a bit over-the-top, as in the good but not-very-Italian meatball pizza.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two files on K! Pizzacone: “That every bite tastes like run-of-the-mill pizza isn’t the most upsetting drawback. Paying a premium to eat a cone of pizza in the nucleus of touristdom makes even the most confident native feel like a chump.”
[New Yorker]

Have a restaurant tip or other food-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.

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