Food

Co’m Suon Nuong at Pho Grand, Dish No. 39

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We tend to make such a fuss over pho and banh mi, that we neglect the other delights of the Vietnamese menu. At Pho Grand — which may or may not be the city’s best Vietnamese restaurant, after the closing of the Bronx’s World of Taste — a host of over-rice dishes make great meals, of which our favorite is #107 on the menu, co’m suon nuong.

The dish is peasant-simple, including a scoop of rice, card’s deck of sliced cukes, vinegary and fishy dipping sauce shot with shredded carrots called nuoc cham, and a delightful pair of thin-cut, charcoal grilled pork chops glossed with a semisweet glaze and sprinkled with chopped scallions.

And Pho Grand was one of a very few restaurants open on Sunday in Manhattan’s Chinatown, after Irene swept out of the city.

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