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2000 Stories by Jessica Harris

Archives: 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998
  • Also-Ran No Flash in the Pan

    published December 19, 2000

    Serendipity plays a larger part in restaurant reviews than most admit—a bill of fare that catches the eye, an inspired server, a slam dunk by... More >>

  • Not Your Average Corner Chinese

    published December 5, 2000

    At first look, Grand Sichuan would seem to be another one of those small joints serving the Chinese food that has come to be a part of the daily... More >>

  • Dixie Dining in Northern Times Square

    published November 21, 2000

    Ever since I up and bought a house in New Orleans to celebrate my croning, I've been hankering to find a New York kitchen where I could get my... More >>

  • There Goes the Neighborhood

    published November 7, 2000

    I miss local restaurants. Fancier than diners but solidly plebeian, these comfort stops ruled the 'hoods and defined dining out in years past with... More >>

  • Original Sin

    published October 24, 2000

    One of the few things that I remember from the mists of my primary education is the painful conjugating of the Latin verbs we droned aloud. I... More >>

  • Country Matters

    published October 10, 2000

    Perhaps it's the increasingly balkanized workstations in which we labor. Perhaps it's the solitude of cursing the cursor for hours on end.... More >>

  • All-American Meat to Beat

    published September 19, 2000

    I've had so many steak frites over the last few years that I'd forgotten the delirious hedonism of an American steak-house steak—dense,... More >>

  • A Chain Grows in Brooklyn

    published September 5, 2000

    One of the potted evergreens is dead and the other moribund outside the newly opened eatery on the corner of New York Avenue and Atlantic, but... More >>

  • Herbal Infusion

    published August 22, 2000

    It's clear that this is a special place from the moment you descend into the monastic dining room, where flickering lights, muted colors, and... More >>

  • Happy Talk

    published August 8, 2000

    Parisians have l'heure bleue, when café sitters watch as twilight paints the city a silver-tinged cobalt. Provençals savor... More >>

  • Something for Everyone

    published July 25, 2000

    The people watching is prime at Morrell Wine Bar & Café, right across the street from the front paw of Jeffrey Koons's puppy in Rockefeller... More >>

  • To Everything There Is a Season

    published July 11, 2000

    We're not supposed to eat cherries in the snow or savor plum pudding in July. Each culture seems to have its own idea of what goes best on the... More >>

  • Good and Plenty

    published June 27, 2000

    Nowadays, mounds of food rise and fall on plates like graphs of the stock market. The affluent '80s gave us the two-beans-and-a-lettuce-leaf... More >>

  • Last Supper With Mommy

    published June 13, 2000

    My mother died suddenly and unexpectedly last month. Although she was 87, her indomitable spirit and tireless energy made her seem eternal to me... More >>

  • Lambshead Revisited

    published May 16, 2000

    Like many of my generation, I was raised to eat everything on my plate, compelled to sit and stare at congealing masses of unwanted food until I... More >>

  • Brooklyn Invades Chelsea

    published May 2, 2000

    I discovered it thumbing through Zagat 2000 in search of a Chelsea spot. The name was intriguing, and I wondered just how the chef would celebrate... More >>

  • Mouthful Meets Lungful

    published April 18, 2000

    I know butter is back. I took it in stride when my young cousin started eyeing my venerable fondue pot. Nonetheless, I was surprised when I was... More >>

  • Isla in the Smog

    published April 4, 2000

    Nuevo Latino crept up on us with the stealth of a good chile. First, salsa became as ubiquitous as ketchup. Then, Miami's Mango Gang, as foodies... More >>

  • Everything's Ducky in Brooklyn

    published March 21, 2000

    Saul, on Smith Street's increasingly hot restaurant strip, looks more like an Italian social club than a bistro with buzz: a modern brick front, a... More >>

  • What a Dif’rence a Day Makes

    published March 7, 2000

    Many years ago, a teacher wrote on the board in my freshman philosophy course, "You can't step twice in the same river." I suspect this fragment... More >>

  • White Rum, Fresh Vanilla, and the Fritter Factor

    published February 22, 2000

    For several years, the wind of Gallic influence has littered New York's streets with bistros, brasseries, and patisseries. But now that wind has... More >>

  • Hot Times in a Forest Hills Mango

    published February 8, 2000

    When the temperature plummets, I find myself glancing at menus posted in windows, sniffing exhausts for the scent of chile and the warm molasses... More >>

  • Sailing Into the Midtown Sea

    published January 25, 2000

    Recently, Midtown has blossomed with spots that are jockeying for position as the classics of the zero decade. Chez Louis celebrates foie gras and... More >>

  • Simply Heavenly Uptown Spot Is No Flash in the Pan

    published January 11, 2000

    Perhaps because we share the same first name and middle initial, I'm a longtime fan of Langston Hughes's Jesse B. Semple. I've savored his... More >>

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