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1999 Stories by Robert Sietsema

Archives: 2013 | 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998
  • New Greenpoint Outpost of Southern Cooking

    published December 21, 1999

    Way off the tourist track, Vallo di Diano occupies the semiarid lower stretch of Italy's Campania. On a hillock in the center sits Teggiano, a... More >>

  • Bunny Chow

    published December 7, 1999

    Cobbled together of salvaged wood and Quonset-hut tin, it might be a grog shop in Soweto. There's a shelf crowded with handwoven baskets, a couple... More >>

  • Shake Your Sumac

    published November 23, 1999

    Glowing like a saffron sun, chelo rice commands the center of the table. Served on a plate the size of a small yacht, each glistening grain... More >>

  • Tastes Like Headcheese to Me

    published November 9, 1999

    Silky as a hundred-dollar blouse, ruddy as a stevedore's face in a high wind, the prosciutto di Parma ($9) swirls around the plate, mocking a pair... More >>

  • Georgia on My Mind

    published October 26, 1999

    Sure, most Brighton Beach restaurants serve up a handful of Georgian favorites like chicken tabaka and kidney-bean lobio. But since Cafe Pearl... More >>

  • Noodle Diplomacy

    published October 12, 1999

    Koreatown is booming, with restaurants debuting all along 32nd and 35th streets. Many offer previously unobtainable specialties. Mandoo Bar (2... More >>

  • Frog in My Throat

    published September 14, 1999

    Clad in a checked gingham scarf and apron, the waitress trips across a rustic bridge to deliver the casserole, doffing the lid with a flourish to... More >>

  • Watering Hole

    published August 31, 1999

    Once it was a Chinese carryout. Now, teal blue tables, a powder blue drop ceiling, and plum banquettes--a color scheme that doesn't quite work,... More >>

  • Monster Mash

    published August 17, 1999

    For the last decade Senegalese, Ghanaian, and Ivory Coast restaurants have held sway over the city's West African food. Now it's Nigeria's turn.... More >>

  • Dairy State

    published August 3, 1999

    Most of us have zipped past the intersection of Canal and Broadway dozens of times without noticing a restaurant, but pause and gaze skyward... More >>

  • Goodbye Ruby Foo’s

    published July 20, 1999

    Like a Fu Manchu movie crossed with a small upstate university's art collection, Ruby Foo's flaunts its Asian artifacts. Make your way up the... More >>

  • Hey Joe, Where Ya Goin’ With That Noodle in Your Hand?

    published July 6, 1999

    Kissena Boulevard is the strip-mall capital of Korean Flushing, lined with clusters of barbers and beauty shops, greengrocers and video stores,... More >>

  • Bistro Africain

    published June 22, 1999

    Tucked under the chin of the verdant and mountainous Marcus Garvey Park, African Grill occupies the former premises of a Harlem dive known as the... More >>

  • Great Balls of Masa

    published June 8, 1999

    Stuffed with cheese or pork, hand-patted, then cooked to speckled brownness on the griddle, pupusas are one of the great comfort foods. These... More >>

  • Upscale Mexican Takes a Road Trip

    published May 25, 1999

    Streaked a single shade of peach, Cafe Frida parrots a too familiar design idea—a village with tiled roofs, arched walkways, and multilevel... More >>

  • Still Hungary

    published May 11, 1999

    For most of this century, Manhattan's Yorkville harbored a sizable Hungarian population. Their coffeehouses, butcher shops, and restaurants were... More >>

  • Hamburger Heaven

    published April 27, 1999

    You'd think the big-chain renditions would have killed the burger. But the assault of Ronald and his pals on our national dish has only made it... More >>

  • Cuckoo for Cou-Cou

    published April 13, 1999

    Sporting an electric-blue awning, Culpepper's is a brand-new Bajan café a few blocks south of Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn's... More >>

  • Gimme a Pigfoot

    published March 30, 1999

    There's magic in pied de cochon ($13)— flesh scraped from boiled bones and chopped fine, merged with bits of onion, celery, and carrot, then... More >>

  • Eat, Lean, and Snooze

    published March 16, 1999

    Among the many amazing features of In God We Trust is a wall of Astroturf next to the tables, which makes for some comfy leaning after downing... More >>

  • Abalone, No Baloney

    published March 2, 1999

    The 2300 miles of mountains that separate Chile and Argentina prevent much culinary resemblance. While Chileans depend on seafood that rides the... More >>

  • Royal Road

    published February 16, 1999

    Kings Highway is Brooklyn's camino real— a grand thoroughfare tracing a grid-defying arc through the heart of immigrant neighborhoods: East... More >>

  • Stoemp

    published February 2, 1999

    Squaring off across a windy meat-district corner, a pair of Belgian eateries beckon fans with jocular sounding specialties like waterzooi, dame... More >>

  • Two Hours Before the Maste

    published January 19, 1999

    The stretch of Coney Island Avenue that runs through Ditmas Park marks the culinary center of the city's thriving Muslim community, packed with... More >>

  • Soul Remains

    published January 5, 1999

    Leafing through back issues of The Amsterdam News at the Schomburg Library, I stumbled on a restaurant advertising section dated January... More >>

Archives: 2013 | 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998
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