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2004 Stories by Robert Sietsema

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  • Fool's Gold

    published December 28, 2004

    In some neighborhoods, Italian trattorias have become as common as Greek diners once were—or maybe the real comparison is with Irish bars,... More >>

  • Hatchet Job

    published December 21, 2004

    Why am I so obsessed with wood? The barbecues I love—City Market in Luling, Texas; Wilber's Barbecue in Goldsboro, North Carolina; and... More >>

  • Pounded Nuts

    published December 14, 2004

    "Hey, that looks like something I scooped out of my sink trap," quipped one of the Pratt girls as gado-gado ($6.50) arrived. But the moment she... More >>

  • Day of the Dosa

    published December 7, 2004

    Five years ago, Jersey City's Little India was limited to a three-block stretch of Newark Avenue just north of Journal Square, catering mainly to... More >>

  • Ultra-Atkins

    published November 30, 2004

    "Will you be staying for dinner?" the greeter asked, a bit disingenuously, I thought afterward. Was she discouraging customers from dropping in... More >>

  • One Amazing Sandwich

    published November 23, 2004

    Assembling last week's piece about Christmas in Chinatown, I propelled myself eastward along Kings Highway one moonless night. My intention was to... More >>

  • Chop Suey Christmas

    published November 16, 2004

    December 25 dawns and you're totally burned-out. You've endured zillions of grating TV commercials, looked away in disgust from innumerable... More >>

  • Bullets and Burritos

    published November 16, 2004

    Two decades ago, Bushwick Park was known as the worst druggie park in the city, and gunshots often echoed across its seven acres. It was renamed... More >>

  • True Pizza

    published November 9, 2004

    Forget Naples. New York continues to assert its predominance as the world's greatest pizza town. On the street we have thin Neapolitan slices,... More >>

  • Finding Philoxenia

    published November 2, 2004

    We had trouble finding the place as we crawled eastward on 23rd Avenue in a blinding downpour, but finally spotted the wood-frame house, its front... More >>

  • Lazy Flesh of the Ray

    published October 26, 2004

    A bucket bursts with freshly cut sunflowers. Fading barnwood faces a ramshackle cabinet. Stacks of orange and green squashes crowd the fireplace... More >>

  • Sufferin' Succotash

    published October 19, 2004

    Walker Evans reportedly ate there in the early '40s, and so did martyred Reds Julius and Ethel Rosenberg. Berenice Abbott lived in an apartment... More >>

  • Scarlet Slaw

    published October 12, 2004

    Squeezed betwixt Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, and China, mountainous Tajikistan is the poorest Central Asian republic, torn by civil war since its... More >>

  • Where's Lardo?

    published October 5, 2004

    Saltimbocca is one of the chief delights of Roman cuisine. I'm not talking about the ancient Romans—who sprayed a fermented fish sauce called... More >>

  • Smelling Salt Water

    published September 21, 2004

    What cuisine makes the most lavish use of olive oil? we pondered as we dipped pita after pita into the oleaginous lake left over from shrimp... More >>

  • Egg Lover's Paradise

    published September 14, 2004

    Tamil Nadu, a state on the palm-fringed southeast coast of India, is the cradle of Hindu vegetarian cooking. The cuisine depends on rice and... More >>

  • 2 Torn 2B Worn

    published September 7, 2004

    Guyana was in the wrong place at the wrong time. As a result of scattershot British colonialism, this Anglophone South American country found... More >>

  • Disintegrating Gnocchi

    published August 31, 2004

    Halfway through our meal, my dining companion laid down her fork, turned to me, and exclaimed, "What this restaurant needs is a good spanking."... More >>

  • Poetic Poultry

    published August 24, 2004

    Garishly decorated, the long trestle table is lined with wooden chairs, blue and pink balloons tethered to their backs with ribbon. Grannies sit... More >>

  • Cuisine de Clink

    published August 17, 2004

    Basically, it's not going to be a picnic. So stick a sandwich or two in your pocket when you go to the demo. Because if you get arrested and... More >>

  • Mongols on Main Street

    published August 17, 2004

    The logo shows a cuddly baby lamb wearing a bow tie, so it comes as no surprise that Happy Family specializes in lamb. At this cavernous Chinese... More >>

  • Food for Thought

    published August 17, 2004

    One right that the founding fathers forgot to put in the Constitution was the Right to Dine, something New Yorkers insist on. And it doesn't end... More >>

  • August in July

    published August 10, 2004

    The menu reads like a greatest hits of European peasant fare—the kind of salty, greasy, garlicky food you remember from your Spanish or... More >>

  • Crashing Boar

    published August 3, 2004

    In the steep southern hills of Umbria, the favorite stalk of hunters is wild boar, known to Italians as cinghiale, and to taxonomists as... More >>

  • Getting Gooey

    published July 27, 2004

    Sunset Park, Brooklyn, is poised to become the city's foremost Chinatown. Whereas five years ago it was confined to Eighth Avenue between 50th and... More >>

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