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2006 Stories by Robert Sietsema

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  • Seize the Egg

    published June 27, 2006

    Jack and Grace Lamb are the acknowledged king and queen of micro-dining. While other restaurateurs dream of birthing behemoth restaurants of two... More >>

  • Counting Sheep

    published June 20, 2006

    Not since Fat Baby Lamb—a northern Chinese restaurant in Flushing—have I encountered a place as obsessed with the flesh of young sheep.... More >>

  • Frieze and Furze

    published June 13, 2006

    The artichoke ($11) is steamed an intriguing shade of green, one that will never appear in fashion forecasts. The innermost leaves and furzy parts... More >>

  • Egg Incorporated

    published June 6, 2006

    We've spilled lots of ink in these pages about new Sumatran restaurants like Minang Asli and Upi Jaya that have changed our way of thinking about... More >>

  • Diggin' Ditch

    published May 30, 2006

    Manhattan's latest seafood shack, Ditch Plains, sails in the wake of Pearl Oyster Bar, Mary's Fish Camp, and their numerous imitators—some of... More >>

  • Dog Vanishes

    published May 23, 2006

    Colombia is a nation of snackers, a fact that will become instantly apparent if you drop by East Elmhurst's Northern Boulevard any evening. Neon... More >>

  • Breech Baby

    published May 16, 2006

    Japanese has never been considered one of the world's greatest cuisines. It borrows extensively from other traditions (tempura from Portugal,... More >>

  • Feta Blizzard

    published May 9, 2006

    The restaurant is located in a rat's ass of a neighborhood in Long Island City, a cul-de-sac that time forgot with the abject look of a Hopper... More >>

  • Frida Fatigue

    published May 2, 2006

    Tired of Manhattan margarita mills with their timid Tex-Mex? When you get a yen for real Mexican, head for Sunset Park, where Fifth Avenue hosts a... More >>

  • Trunk Show

    published April 25, 2006

    If you haven't been to Jersey City's Newark Avenue lately, get on over. This strip of Indian businesses four blocks north of Journal Square has... More >>

  • Better Belly

    published April 18, 2006

    The ingredients are nothing special—tofu,bitter melon, scallions, and Spam. Stir fried and topped with a frizzle of dried bonito, the... More >>

  • Brik House

    published April 11, 2006

    Take a stroll along Tunis's tree-lined Avenue Bourguiba around sunset as the populace is hurrying home from work or out to theaters and coffee... More >>

  • Shrimp Mountain

    published April 4, 2006

    I was tacking into a brisk headwind on College Point Boulevard—the eastern edge of the muddy garage-and-manufacturing district F. Scott... More >>

  • Serpentine

    published March 28, 2006

    My pal Michael grew up in Bensonhurst in an Italian American family, so it wasn't hard to predict what he'd order. The menu called it "handcut... More >>

  • Polo Party

    published March 21, 2006

    For Iranians, rice is a wild party. Iranian restaurants typically offer multiple forms of rice pilaf, called polo, in lively colors ranging from... More >>

  • Ein Eulogie

    published March 14, 2006

    Felicitously located smack dab in the middle of a Lutheran cemetery, 150-year-old Niederstein's recently shuffled off its mortal coil, soon to be... More >>

  • Humpless

    published March 7, 2006

    Boi Na Brasa is one of a half dozen real Brazilian churrascarias to open in Newark's Ironbound in the last two years. The lure of these places for... More >>

  • Just Snacking

    published February 28, 2006

    Is it possible to love a restaurant for a single innovation? That's the question that occurred to me as I finished up my fourth meal at Cookshop,... More >>

  • Apulia Redux

    published February 21, 2006

    Located way down Court Street, in a region once known as South Brooklyn or Red Hook but renamed Carroll Gardens by real estate developers in the... More >>

  • Décor, D'Accord!

    published February 14, 2006

    Given the accelerating gentrification of Harlem—with franchise restaurants swarming the landscape like locusts—I've been worrying about... More >>

  • Wok That Way

    published February 7, 2006

    Indo Wok is the third Indo-Chinese restaurant to open in Manhattan's Curry Hill in the last year. Though the fad has yet to challenge the hegemony... More >>

  • Serious Scorch

    published January 31, 2006

    A decade ago, New York had a thing for Southwestern food. It was Southwestern cooking, with its adept use of fresh and dried chiles, long-braised... More >>

  • Humble Pie

    published January 24, 2006

    Pizza as we know it was invented at Lombardi's—then a bakery—around 1895, inspired by flatbreads fabricated in Naples since Roman... More >>

  • Bali Who?

    published January 17, 2006

    Gotham has never harbored more than three or four Indonesian restaurants at any given time, making it one of our rarest cuisines. While most have... More >>

  • Mountain Food

    published January 10, 2006

    The dining room at Metsovo feels positively prehistoric. Blackened by six years of smoke, a whitewashed fireplace blazes at the end of the room,... More >>

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