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2007 Stories by Robert Sietsema

Archives: 2013 | 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998
  • Bachelor pad

    published December 25, 2007

    Jersey City's Little India wasn't nearly as impressive 10 years ago. Chowpatty anchored the neighborhood back then, the top dog in a modest pack... More >>

  • Duck mistaken for chocolate in South Ozone Park

    published December 18, 2007

    A friend who is perhaps too fond of playing the ponies called a couple of weeks ago to breathlessly report that, on his way to Aqueduct, he'd... More >>

  • Frenching Sheep

    published December 11, 2007

    I love Porchetta. I don't mean the herb-stuffed roast pork sold by the roadside in Central Italy, though I love that, too. I mean the short-lived... More >>

  • Floundering

    published December 4, 2007

    Wrapped in a red sheath dress that showed off her slim figure, the bride's mother took her place at the microphone under the ornate coffered... More >>

  • Bull Market: A Restaurant Generated by Concept

    published November 27, 2007

    Traditionally, there are several ways to generate new restaurants. They can be inspired by timeworn cuisines or by the creativity of inventive... More >>

  • Promising New Moroccan comes to Astoria

    published November 20, 2007

    The cheerful, round-faced proprietor met us in the doorway, clasping his hands in front of him. "We're serving the fast-breaking meal of Ramadan,"... More >>

  • A Shrine to Pig Feet Opens in the West Village

    published November 13, 2007

    Manhattan has hosted its share of weird-ass eateries. One place obsesses on peanut-butter sandwiches (Peanut Butter & Co.), while another tosses... More >>

  • Mexican shoebox on Williamsburg's Broadway challenges Sunset Park

    published November 6, 2007

    I had high hopes when I sauntered into Taco Santana, and not only because it called to mind a certain top-notch San Francisco guitarist. I'd been... More >>

  • New Isaan Café Charges into Southeastern Astoria Spewing Chilies

    published October 30, 2007

    Food from the Isaan region has become the holy grail of Thai cuisine. But who can explain what it is? Fiery salads, certainly, in which pungent... More >>

  • Bocca: Skip the Secondi and Save Some Dough

    published October 23, 2007

    As restaurateurs open successive places, they often get worse and worse. This worried me as I wandered westward along 19th Street for my first... More >>

  • Burping up market-driven fare on East 7th

    published October 16, 2007

    You've got to troop down a dark stairway to reach Jimmy's No. 43, catching glimpses of codgers holding up the barstools in the sports bar... More >>

  • More than Pupusas at Uptown Salvadoran

    published October 2, 2007

    The sign says Rincon Centro-americano ("Central American Corner"). It's part of a halfhearted attempt on the part of the restaurant... More >>

  • Dreamy Moussaka at Bay Ridge Greek Taverna

    published September 25, 2007

    Nobody's sure who made the first moussaka. The Greeks claim the Arabs brought it to Greece in the Middle Ages along with eggplant. The Arabs... More >>

  • On the Taco Trail

    published September 18, 2007

    What makes a great taco? Two pale corn tortillas, rendered warm and glove-soft by a visit to the griddle. A generous heap of meat that has texture... More >>

  • Blonde on Blonde

    published September 18, 2007

    Poke around in any South Asian grocery in Curry Hill, Jackson Heights, or Richmond Hill, and you'll find bags of spices at one-tenth what you'd... More >>

  • The Frying Game

    published September 11, 2007

    Our love affair with frying began in 1802, when Thomas Jefferson introduced the french fry to America. Potato chips were invented in upstate New... More >>

  • Mama Mia!

    published September 4, 2007

    Anyone who perched at the counter munching the fried rabbit morsels served in a grease-stained paper sack at Hearth on Avenue A will be amazed at... More >>

  • Art Bites

    published August 28, 2007

    Autumn is nearly upon us, and as the tourist hordes ebb the indigenous population (that's you and me) begins to crawl out of its shell, and one of... More >>

  • Are We There Yeti?

    published August 28, 2007

    The pink electric sign said "Open," but when we craned our necks and cupped our hands to peer through the window, we couldn't make out anything.... More >>

  • Getting the Last Laffa

    published August 21, 2007

    If you're accustomed to thinking of pita as a small cardboard wallet for storing your falafel, reconsider: Olympic Pita's pita is twice the... More >>

  • Rotten Tomatoes

    published August 14, 2007

    Five years ago, when Fresh Direct trucks first hit the streets, certain people I knew—mainly lawyers and advertising types who worked hard,... More >>

  • Little Dieterle

    published August 7, 2007

    I'm a big fan of Top Chef, but not of the food created on the show: Too much of it depends on weird combinations of faddish ingredients.... More >>

  • Cuckoo for Cou-Cou

    published July 31, 2007

    Barbadian cuisine might be the most playful and good-natured in the world. This occurred to us as we chowed down on "ground provisions"—a... More >>

  • Georgia Rule

    published July 24, 2007

    Four of us were hiding from the burning sun around two in the afternoon at Tamada ("Toastmaster"), a new Georgian restaurant in Sheepshead Bay,... More >>

  • Coveting Clod

    published July 17, 2007

    In many respects, Hill Country is a reverent re-creation of Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas, the Lone Star State's most beloved barbecue. Kreuz is... More >>

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