Email Author Tejal Rao

2013 Stories by Tejal Rao

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  Wylie Dufresne's Casual East Village Outpost

  published May 15, 2013

  Here is a bowl of New England clam chowder ($15), the stock, thickened with potato, a silky conduit for the flavors of clams, bacon, and bay... More >>

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  Feast Bungles Group Dining in the East Village

  published May 8, 2013

  If you've stood with friends and watched a piglet roast over the coals, or passed around a gratin dish so heavy that you sprained a wrist,... More >>

• Kajitsu's Rite of Spring

  published May 1, 2013

  A cherry-tree leaf is fried to a sheer crackle. It conceals a single flowering fern, clipped before it could unfurl, snap peas, and a... More >>

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  With Nightingale 9, American-Vietnamese Street Food Comes to Carroll Gardens

  published April 24, 2013

  The fried rice at Nightingale 9 has been crisped in pig's fat and comes dotted with clouds of fried egg. But the best thing about it might be... More >>

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  Richard Kuo Goes His Own Way at Pearl & Ash

  published April 17, 2013

  Food doesn't haunt people, sadistic ghosts do. But you may find yourself thinking of Richard Kuo's cooking long after you've tasted it at the... More >>

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  What's a Modern Spanish Brasserie?

  published April 10, 2013

  I'd been trying off and on for the past 15 minutes, in increasingly cartoonish gestures, to make eye contact with one of the servers sauntering... More >>

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  Cata's Rustic Spanish Flavors Are Spot-on

  published April 3, 2013

  You've been let down by big, gaudy pans of paella—symmetries of overcooked seafood and meat. The rice is too wet, ridiculously yellow,... More >>

• Saul Bolton's Red Gravy Hits Atlantic Avenue

  published March 27, 2013

  Restaurants are like family—the closer they are to us, the quicker we are to forgive them their faults—which is why neighborhood... More >>

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  Xixa Shines Bright in Williamsburg

  published March 20, 2013

  We expect to stumble onto a parallel universe in a long-running Marvel series, but not so much when we're out to dinner—restaurants,... More >>

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  Pedro Hernandez Perez Gets Comfy at Cocina Economica Mexico

  published March 13, 2013

  It's not unusual to find highly trained cooks eating food unfit for Dickensian orphans. One of the worst staff meals I ever endured was at a... More >>

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  Into the Wild at Aska in Williamsburg

  published March 6, 2013

  It's always been the mark of a great chef to treat the ugly and unpleasant with a bit of tenderness, to find the delicious where it's least... More >>

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  Iron Chef Morimoto Gets Fancy with Fast Food

  published February 27, 2013

  One of the most beautiful things I've ever seen was the chef and television star Masaharu Morimoto take his knife to a whole fish. The man is a... More >>

• Traditional Korean Skewers and Stews in the Flatiron District

  published February 20, 2013

  Servers trying to pass off a kitchen's laziness as whimsy will always tell you the food is going to "come out as it's ready," as if each small... More >>

• A Decade On, Freelancers Union Founder Sara Horowitz Takes Her Fight Mainstream

  published February 13, 2013

  "The models are already there!" Sara Horowitz shouts over traffic in downtown Brooklyn. "All these people in the 1920s, they figured it out... More >>

• Crown Heights' Charming Bar Corvo Embraces Its Local Life

  published February 6, 2013

  Some restaurants seem to push their way toward perfection over time, tightening their braces until things are just so. More >>

• Tongue These Pig Ears at the Pod Hotel's Salvation Taco

  published January 30, 2013

  On a recent evening, a friend at the thumping, packed Salvation... More >>

• Juliana's Life of Pie

  published January 23, 2013

  Patsy Grimaldi has no interest in the theater of pizza making, the stunts that draw in the crowds. Stroll down Old Fulton Street, by the foot... More >>

• Maysville, Your New Kentucky Home

  published January 16, 2013

  Long rows of glowing brown spirits. Men in jackets clinking scotch glasses over a table of steaks. More >>

• Waiter, Bring Us Our Bill's

  published January 2, 2013

  The runner climbs a flight of stairs with a heavy load of aged rib eyes and chickens held high above his head, avoiding a disaster a second. In... More >>