Best big-eye crudo (2008)

VENTO

Crudo is the Venetian answer to sashimi, delicate slices of fish sluiced with fruity olive oil and sea salt, with maybe a bit of herb or chile or fruit preserves to modify the flavor. King of Crudo is Esca, but VENTO surprised me one summer evening with its excellent big-eye crudo, five violently red swatches of raw tuna bathed in olive oil and surmounted by a green slice of serrano chile.