Since I couldn't cite OLD TOWN BAR in two categories in the same issue, it was a toss-up whether I would laud it for wings or fried onion rings—huge rounds hacked from a sweet, sweet onion of amazing girth, dipped in a batter that's light yet crunchily substantial. Bar food magic! Instead, I picked the wings, a bowl of fearfully red chicken limbs flinging off enough vinegar fumes to instantly wrinkle your brow when they arrive.

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45 E. 18th St.
New York NY 10003


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