Best Chicken Yassa (2008)
This Fulton Street standby was one of the city's first Senegalese eateries. Now they've blossomed in the boroughs like hair-braider shops in Bed-Stuy. Keur N'Deye, though, remains a classic, and still offers a magnificent rendering of the lemon-and-onion-marinated chicken yassa that is traditional to the Casamance region of Southern Senegal. Moist, tender, with the slip of the cooked onions and the lemony tang of the sauce, this yassa takes me back to the Dakar of my youth.