Best Daring Use of Fatty Tuna (2008)

FRESH

Somewhere it's written in stone that the fat-marbled meat on the tuna's belly can only be served as sashimi, or, in the style of places like Nobu and Bond Street, lightly seared. Flying in the face of this inflexible doctrine, newcomer FRESH sautés toro into oblivion, developing a garlicky caramelized crust on the outside, and rendering the flesh into something like ground veal.

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