best display of preserved fish (2008)


Demonstrating the Scandinavian obsession with preserved fish is the magnificent herring platter at ULRIKA'S. Mounded miniature herring swatches kick like a chorus line with cures that range from herbal to tomato to mustard. Also find matjes ("maiden") herring, made from younger specimens, and a herring salad winkingly called "gentleman's delight."


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