best display of preserved fish (2008)

ULRIKA'S

Demonstrating the Scandinavian obsession with preserved fish is the magnificent herring platter at ULRIKA'S. Mounded miniature herring swatches kick like a chorus line with cures that range from herbal to tomato to mustard. Also find matjes ("maiden") herring, made from younger specimens, and a herring salad winkingly called "gentleman's delight."