Best extraordinary oxtails (2008)
Les' Restaurant is one of those old-time Brooklyn soul-food spots where the menu reflects the Carolinian colonization of Bed-Stuy beginning in the 1920s, with a few Jamaican influences added subsequently. The fried chicken is great, of course, but even better is the Tuesday special of oxtails, coin-shaped fragments of bony meat in a gravy brown as a Brooklyn midnight. The gravy conceals plenty of fat, too, and it's this richness that makes great oxtails fly. For your sides, go Southern with lima beans, or Caribbean with rice and peas. And ask yourself the perennial question: What happened to the rest of the ox?