Best Far West Celeri Remoulade (2008)

La Lunchonette

Tenth Avenue brings to mind slaughter and stalkers more than thoughts of bistro fare. Yet faraway, funky, and usually full, La Lunchonette lures diners, including a large Gallic contingent, to its two rooms and its careful renditions of classics like the seasonal celeri remoulade. Here, the celeriac is cut into thin ribbons and liberally coated with a vinaigrette in which the mustard is truly tasted—not just a concession to the recipe—and served up with style and sass.