Best freaky fries (2008)
Calmly poached in oil—rather than violently fried—the french fries at Little Pepper are pale, soothing the tongue with their creamy texture. But what they're dusted with provides an opposite experience: The crinkle-cuts come thickly coated with a ground mixture of cumin and Sichuan peppercorns. Little Pepper is the foremost dispenser of huajiao (Sichuan peppercorns) in town, shrub buds that leave your tongue throbbing with pain and pleasure. Sautéed lamb dusted with cumin and peppercorns is another of this spot's northern Chinese anomalies, and organ eaters will find plenty to amuse them: kidneys, tripe, intestines, pig ears, and further body parts of obscure provenance.