Screw the Belgian fry places in town, which have gradually diverged from the real product to offer french fries habitually too brown and too dry in the middle. Instead, seek out places that sling the fare of the former Soviet Central Asian republics, where fries arrive hot and glistening with oil and heaped with dill and crushed garlic for an extra flavor thrill. One fave is Baku, named after the Azerbaijani capital and located in a former diner.

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