Best gnarly noodles—Queens (2008)

Ja Gal Chi

Queens has long been the bastion of Korean joints specializing in the northern Chinese noodles called cha chiang mein. These noodles are made by hand, involving much noisy thwamping and thumping of the dough upon the metal prep surface. Hearing this being done while you wait, drooling, is your guarantee of fresh noodles. The best this year are found at Ja Gal Chi (English name: Oriental Restaurant), and they come smothered in a gelatinous black sauce of beans, pork, and onions (order "noodles with special brown sauce").


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