Best Graceful Grilled Fish (2008)
The sea bass at Astoria's STAMATIS, one of the neighborhood's old-timers, is cooked over charcoal, and develops a burnished skin with little charred sections imprinted by the cooking basket that held it. Doused with pungent olive oil and a handful of dried oregano, the flesh is sweet, tender, and smoky. Though the bass is large enough to share, you won't want to. Insist on selecting your fish from the window display.