Best Grilled Octopus (2008)

Stamatis

Lunches at Stamatis are frequently punctuated with the ringing of cell phones of dining businessmen, but I forbear because the grilled octopus appetizer is fantastic—pieces of tentacle slightly charred on the outside and tender within. They're enough for a meal when accompanied by a glass or two of retsina, a bowlful of salad, and followed by a dessert of the special creamily sweet yogurt topped with a ribbon of fragrant honey.