Best Groovy Greek (2008)

SCOUNA TAVERNA

Go on Sunday afternoon, and see what remains of Astoria's Greek community strut their stuff at SCOUNA TAVERNA. This unassuming eatery hails from Crete, though it serves a Panhellenic menu of fresh grilled fish, tangy bread dips, and a roster of stewed seafood and meat dishes that may be viewed on the steam table. Porgy is my fish of choice, and I never miss the skordalia—a thick puree of potatoes, olive oil, and raw garlic that makes anything dipped in it fantastic.

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