Bet you thought I meant the burrowing animal with beady eyes—but, no, I'm talking about "moe-lays," the pre-Colombian Mexican sauces laboriously made from dozens of ingredients. The recently expanded DEL VALLE makes all the usual green, brown, and red versions, and several rarely seen ones as well, including a soupy mole from the town in south Puebla where the owners originated: Tulcingo Del Valle.

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665 10th Ave.
New York NY 10036


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