Best Pernil (2008)
Robert Sietsema: The Cuban restaurants that New York was hopping with in the 60s are now only a faint memory. But the best remains: Victors Caf, where the iconic roast-pork shoulder known as pernil (styled lechon asado on the menu) is marinated in sour orange and comes heavily gobbed with crushed garlic.
Sarah DiGregorio: La Fe in Sunset Park is the sort of old-school Spanish-American lunch counter where you feel in your bones that youre about to eat something good. And youre right: The pernil here comes with burnished slabs of mahogany skin interspersed with the lushest, porkiest meat imaginable, seasoned with plenty of black pepper and garlic. The yellow rice and beans on the side are excellent, too.