Best Righteous Use of Cephalopod (2008)
When the partners at PEPOLINO finished up their stint at Florence's renowned Il Cibreo and emigrated to the U.S., they took a couple of signature dishes with them. Inzimeno, associated with the Tuscan town of Torre del Lago, begins with squid rings, escarole, and spinach, then cooks them down to a dark green sludge. The appearance: off-putting. The flavor: delightful.