Best Roman Spiedini (2008)

ROMANO

In Roman cooking, the same spiedo is used to hold toasted cheese sandwiches as they deep fry, creating spiedini unlike those anywhere else. At ROMANO in Dyker Heights, the sandwich is an especially lush double-decker the size of a small dog, made with fresh mozzarella and dipped in beaten egg before frying. Then anchovies are laid along the seams, and the whole thing is deposited in a light buttery sauce. Wear your napkin like a bib.

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