Best Rotisserie Chicken, East Side (2008)

Pio Pio

The Queens Peruvian chain PIO PIO recently established a beachhead on the Upper East, invading the space once occupied by Manhattan's own failed favorite, El Pollo. The chicken at the new location is superb, densely matted with spices, even if the hot sauce ("aji"—supposed to be the sound of a stifled scream as you burn your mouth) has been diluted and turned into a vinaigrette. Other Peruvian oddities—like salchipapas, a children's dish of french fries and cocktail franks—abound.

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