Best Sake (2008)

Forbidden City

Eastern chic meets East Village freak at FORBIDDEN CITY, where the sake overfloweth. Running water, gilded dragons, and blissed-out Buddhas lend themselves to the Benihana mystique, while the potent cocktails promise healthy doses of sexual fortitude. But our favorites are the dozen or so kinds of sake, poured into cube-shaped cups and generously sloshing into the surrounding bowls. The Kaori ($7) was strong yet crisp; the Ginkobai ($10) plummy and sweet. Where else can you get giddy with Siddhartha to the theme from Cops?

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