Best scallion pancakes (2008)

AA PLAZA

What you expect when you order scallion pancakes in a Chinese restaurant is a plate of thick wedges cut from a pair of unspeakably greasy circles tasting of rancid oil. Not so at AA PLAZA, a line of windows that sell traveling food just outside the LIRR's Main Street station. Here the 10-inch-diameter bread is a buttery multilayer production, a light meal in itself.