Best Slice, Hands Down (2008)

Patsy's

It's a trick question, since most of the old-guard, coal-oven Neapolitan pizzerias in town will only serve entire pies. The recently deceased journalist Jonathan Kwitny claimed it had something to do with the mob forcing inferior cheese on neighborhood slice joints while exempting whole-pie places. Who knows? But PATSY'S in East Harlem serves a fantastic plain-Jane slice in its northernmost storefront, the one containing just an oven and a soda cooler. Thin, charred crust, excellent mozzarella, mild tomato sauce—nirvana.

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