Best Succulent Soft-Shell Crabs (2008)
Sure, lots of places sling soft-shells all year round, but do you know what that means? For nine months of the year, the specimens you get have been languishing in the freezer. At ILO, the moist crabs are always fresh, and are thus available only from May till August. Like sentries, two are posted at opposite ends of the long plate, puddled in a thin herby white sauce and separated by fennel slaw hidden under a haystack of infant arugula.